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Contents PREFACE: An Ethical Approach 1 Should You Use Lichen Dyes? 1 History of Asian and Southern European Lichen Dyes Ancient Purples Phoenician Purples Roman Murex and Orchil 6 Bronze and Iron Age Lichen Dyes Florentine Orchil Medieval and Renaissance Lichen Dyes Industrial Revolution and Lichen Dyes The Cudbear Industry Norwegian Korkje 2 Domestic Lichen Dyes of Northern Europe and North America Traditional Lichen Dye Methods Domestic Scottish Lichen Dyes Irish Lichen Dyes Scandinavian Lichen Dyes Early American Lichen Dyes American Aboriginal Lichen Dyes 3 Safe Lichen Dye Methods and Techniques Safe Lichen Dyes BWM Lichen Dyes AM Lichen Dyes (Orsallia) European AM Dyes Natural (and Unnatural) Materials Fibre Preparation Equipment Light Fastness and Delayed Rinsing Trouble-Shooting 4 Eco Dyes and Alternative Mordants Reduced Ammonia AM dye Formula Three-Step Solar Lichen Dyes Three-Step POD Lichen Dyes Fastness and Exhaust Dyes Washing Dyed Fibres Lichen Dyes: The New Source Book Lichens as Mordants Found Materials and Household Mordants How to Adjust AM Dye Bath pH 5 Ethics and Lichen Identification Code of Ethics Lichens and Dye Pigments Chemical Reagents (The C Test) How to Learn Lichen Identification9 "Found" Lichens Epilogue Photographs and Illustrations Glossary Acknowledgements Annotated Bibliography General Index Name, Language, and Place Index
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